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Food · dish

Tapas: which types it suits

Spanish

One or two plates per bar, then on to the next when the glasses are empty

Tapas are the small plates eaten alongside a drink in Spanish bars: patatas bravas with a spicy sauce, thick potato tortilla, croquetas, jamón, prawns cooked in garlic oil. The heart of it is not settling in one place but standing at the bar for a plate or two before moving on to the next. In some cities, such as Granada, a small tapa arrives free with each drink, and in the Basque Country pintxos, toppings on slices of bread, play the same role.

People who love it would rather move between places and flavours than hold onto one thing for long. With no booking and no set menu, walking into a crowded bar and choosing from whatever is on the counter tonight is the centre of the evening. The bigger the group, the more plates you can order, and who picks the next bar becomes the conversation. It suits those who enjoy not knowing where the night will go more than a fixed meal.

The dish's temperament

Scored 0–100 on the eight things that decide whether it fits a person.

Better the more people at the table92
Perfectly good eaten alone20
A known quantity that never misses45
Surprises you the first time65
Technique and ingredients make or break it35
What you crave after a long day50
Needs a booking or real prep12
Happy to be eaten on the move70

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