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Hoi An: which types it suits

Vietnam

When the lanterns come on, the river doubles every one of them

Hoi An is a small old port on the Thu Bon River, its lanes lined with mustard-yellow merchant houses. The trading-town past is packed tightly into the Ancient Town — the Japanese Covered Bridge, the Tan Ky old house, the Chinese assembly halls — and you can see most of the key buildings on foot in half a day. The real hours start at dusk, though: silk lanterns flicker on, small boats drift out carrying candle lanterns, and the town you walked through at noon becomes somewhere else entirely.

It suits travellers who like to soak in atmosphere for a long time, alternating quiet hours with a little people-watching. Mornings are for renting a bicycle and riding through the paddies to Tra Que vegetable village or An Bang beach; evenings are for joining the crowd under the lanterns along the river. Even having clothes made sets the tempo, since waiting a few days for fittings turns out to be an excellent excuse to slow down.

The city's temperament

Scored 0–100 on the eight things that decide whether it fits a person.

A city that never stops coming at you40
A city made for wandering alone58
A city where the itinerary actually holds40
A city that rewards showing up with no plan60
A city with a clear list of things to see58
A city you go to for the mood82
A city where strangers turn into company fast55
A city that's quick to get around40

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